When I had to quickly describe the way to Mostar’s Bijela, it would be: “at the first snake, turn right, and after the second, left. At the next bend, if you’re lucky, you will meet a very shy host turtle, who, after seeing you, tries to hide as quickly as possible with slow steps. After a little over an hour of somewhat monotonous stony terrain and gravel, you arrive at a parked camper that irresistibly resembles the “Magic bus” from the film “Into the Wild” (I believe many hikers and nature lovers are familiar with that story). The gravel road continues straight, and we turn right.

Finally, we reach a shaded area, a gentle ascent, and walk along a forest path, first to Kravlja Cave, and then to Bijela Cave; and that would be it.

Now we will approach the Mostar Bijela route a bit more seriously and in detail.

When you park the car at the starting point next to the sign where you can read some details and see the route map indicating that it will take you two to two and a half hours, we continue along the gravel road to the gate, which you can open without any problem. As I mentioned earlier, a period comes (at least for me), of a rather monotonous part of the path, where we constantly tread the gravel road, and the sun warms your neck, so prepare comfortable footwear and a hat.

Pay close attention to where you step; you don’t want to disturb a snake. Just as you do not want to encounter a viper or another venomous snake, they also do not want to meet you. If that does happen, as it did to me, just make a noise to let them know you are nearby, hit a stick against a nearby rock, as snakes are very sensitive to vibrations, and they will move off your path (as they say: the smarter one yields). In this, just over an hour, I would only note that at one point the path branches off to the right for the peak Lupoglav on Prenj (which is well marked), and we continue straight. Although the markings are quite poor in the first part of the trail, it is hard to get lost. If you just follow the tracks of the gravel road and the tires that some larger off-road vehicles managed to make, you will reach the parked camper, beside which the marking clearly indicates that you no longer need to follow that road but should turn into the forest and finally reach the shade. This path also intersects at several points, mostly dry riverbeds. Here I again emphasize that you pay close attention to the markings because the path we took to the camper goes straight, while our trail enters the forest to the right (and of course, if in the future you read this text and that camper has been removed).

The first thing you think: “finally shade,” you realize that the forest ascent begins now, but again it is acceptable and not so scary, just go slowly and enjoy the walk. The closer you get to Kravlja Cave and the rocks, you will feel bursts of cool and very pleasant air, which refreshes you. I do not need to mention that you should take a break here, rest well, eat something, and take a few photos. Now, after already walking for two hours, resting, you are only about twenty minutes away from entering the cave. Again, an important note that I honestly did not come across while reading texts on this topic, do not forget to bring slippers, as water flows through the cave, and if you are sensitive to cold, maybe some rubber boots. We are ready, slippers/boots on our feet and we enter. The first thing that greets you is cold water up to your ankles, and the second is many little frogs jumping everywhere around you. There is no need for fear; just be careful not to step on one, although they are agile and escape before you can get close enough to take a picture. The magic of light refracting through the cave begins, the cold rocks around you, everything that needs to be experienced, as it is hard to convey this through photographs and words.

Incredible sights and again I am amazed by our Bosnia and Herzegovina, what beauties it somehow jealously keeps in its depths. But as we know, all beautiful places are hidden and harder to reach. If we are careful and considerate towards nature, it rewards us with beautiful sights, such as the view at the end of this cave, where water falls inside and forms a magical waterfall.

Now, satisfied with the sights we have seen, we head towards the exit to warm up a bit, as the temperature is around 5 to 7 degrees.

On the way back to Kravlja Cave, after five minutes, find a small, narrow path on the right side that will lead you to a viewpoint and a captivating view in a minute. There is no sign for the viewpoint, so be careful not to miss the path.

Good luck and enjoy.