Sutjeska National Park, Alps of Herzegovina – Nature You Must Experience

 

As a teenager, I had a huge desire to visit the oldest and largest national park in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sutjeska. You must be wondering why; the reason is the uniqueness of that place, this national park is a totally different dimension of our country. From mountain peaks that stretch for kilometers, from the primeval forest that is the largest in Europe to rivers, waterfalls, and surreal plateaus whose green color rests the eyes of every observer.

You can always find all the information about the park online; I won’t talk about that. I will speak about my experience to best present how the most beautiful national park in the country looks through the eyes of a nature lover.

Why is this national park so special? Why does it awaken a dose of adrenaline and respect in every visitor? I will try to give an approximate answer to these questions because until you feel it, it is hard for anyone to give you an answer that will match your feeling when you get there.

Everyone has heard of Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but few talk about a plateau located at the foot of Maglić, Prijevor. Prijevor left the greatest impression on me in the entire park; it is a plateau surrounded by mountain massifs. That feeling when you step onto the meadow and turn in a circle, seeing those surreal beauties around you, you wonder, wait, where am I? This is what I dreamed of; these are the magical Alps, and then after a few moments, you realize that you are in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and your happiness knows no bounds.

Prijevor Plateau, with Maglić (BiH) and Trnovački Durmitor (CG) in the background

For the first time in my life, I camped; hey, I slept in a tent at 1700 meters above sea level, under a clear sky and surrounded by strange but phenomenal sounds of pure nature. This is one of my favorite experiences in life because I had never seen so many stars in the sky before, and I had never felt a greater presence of wilderness around me than then. It is special; this is what fills the heart of anyone who instinctively loves and respects nature. Interestingly, there is a very strong source of drinking water on the plateau itself; imagine at 1700m above sea level, you have such a great source that will serve you for refreshment. You can even make yourself tea or coffee in the morning when you wake up from the tent and not skip your routine.

You know when you lie down on the grass, stretch out, and with the naked eye, you can recognize any constellation, you can see the surreal Milky Way shimmering in the sky and millions of stars sparkling like fireflies on a warm summer night. That’s why I recommend that you definitely add camping under the highest peak of the country to your bucket list, and to see what it looks like, check out the photo below.


Camping at Prijevor and the Milky Way

This time I didn’t climb Maglić; instead, I visited one of the largest and oldest primeval forests in Europe, Perućica. In the heart of Perućica, there is the Skakavac waterfall, over 70m high, as well as rich flora and fauna.

Perućica is special because man has never altered the appearance of the forest with his influence. At certain moments, you imagine that you are in some tropical regions, especially when you approach the waterfall; the humidity is high, and that feeling is fantastic. Perućica is a must-see location in NP Sutjeska; it is unique, somehow different from other forests, and I have been to various regions, and nowhere have I experienced such diversity in one place. This primeval forest holds great significance; even world biologists have come to admire its diversity; it is a great jewel of this country, and we hope that man will never influence life in the primeval forest, as it is about 20,000 years old, and in the forest itself, there are trees whose rings indicate that they are up to 300 years old.

What I will tell you is that the Skakavac waterfall looks phenomenal, like some South American waterfalls; you somehow feel like you are somewhere in the heart of the Amazon, but in fact, you are in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Isn’t that fantastic? A very pleasant wind blows near Skakavac, which on hot summer days comes as a super natural climate, and the water hitting the rocks creates a kind of rain that further enhances the experience, and there you surrender to the charms of nature.


Skakavac Waterfall

Sutjeska National Park is so diverse because several mountains are located within the park, namely Zelengora, Maglić, Volujak, and Vučevo. Each of them tells a different story; each one is special in its way. For example, Zelengora rightfully carries that name because the grass looks unreal green and calming. Zelengora is considered the most beautiful mountain in the park; at least that’s what most people who have visited the national park say. I can tell you that they are not wrong; even though I was there in very bad weather when there was fog, rain, and it was chilly, Zelengora simply left a huge impression on me.

That greenery that captivates, its accessibility, and its beautiful lakes are something perfect. Zelengora is a very simple mountain; there aren’t too many ascents, there aren’t difficult trails; it is very gentle. If you are lucky, you might encounter a bear, wild goat, or some of the wild animals that, as locals say, are very numerous. I wasn’t lucky this time, but I’m returning there with the intention of seeing how those wonderful creatures enjoy the wilderness of that green mountain.

As I mentioned, Zelengora has several lakes, which are said to be “mountain eyes,” and these lakes are Gornje and Donje Bare, Orlovačko, Kotlaničko, Štirinsko, Borilovačko, Crno, and Bijelo lakes. Impressive, isn’t it? There are also many summer pastures across the entire mountain, as nomads take their herds of sheep to the plateaus rich in very high-quality grass and plants, which is why very high-quality cheese and milk come from there.

Orlovačko Lake, Zelengora

What you must visit is the famous monument in Tjentište, which stands there in memory of the fighters who lost their lives in the battle for Sutjeska. They say it is the heart of the national park and is worth visiting due to its cultural and historical significance. Known as the “Valley of Heroes,” the monument at that site was erected in 1974.

Tjentište is located about 25 kilometers from Foča, and the monument is located near the road, making it very accessible, and a large number of tourists visit this place every year. Did you know that music videos of world-famous stars from various countries on our planet were filmed there?

Every year, more than 30,000 people visit the “Valley of Heroes,” and within this complex, there is also a museum about the battle of Sutjeska as well as a memorial house where frescoes marking significant events from the war can be found.

The monument consists of two concrete wings, separated structures, 19 meters high, which fit fantastically into the natural landscape. Between the wings is a space shaped like fighters and columns in motion. It seems very interesting to you; I warmly recommend that you come to Tjentište.

Monument in Tjentište (“Valley of Heroes”)

Once you come to this oasis of beauty, you will want to return many, many times. Bosnia and Herzegovina is a territorially small country, but very rich in natural beauty. What I have described to you is just a small part of what you can see in NP Sutjeska. I will mention some places that I want to visit on my next encounter with the park, and those are definitely all the lakes of Zelengora; this time I was only at Orlovačko. Besides Zelengora, I want to explore Volujak, Vučevo, as well as try a new dose of adrenaline, which is canyoning on the Hrčavka river, which is said to be perfect for that activity.

There are many things you can do while you are there; I believe you know that Tjentište also hosts the already regionally popular OK Fest, which gathers thousands of people over a few days of the festival. You can also take the time and go for unforgettable rafting on the Tara river; it may not be part of the park, but it is relatively close. It is considered one of the best rivers for rafting; I tried it, and it’s phenomenal!

Yes, I almost forgot to mention, the entrance to Sutjeska National Park costs a symbolic 5KM (2.5 euros), which is a very affordable price for every visitor. Preserve nature, love it, and respect it.

Sunset above the highest mountain in BiH, Maglić